We arrived at Turkmenbashi port around 10:30 am and prepared ourselves for what could be a long wait! Not much to do around here, lots of trucks, a small restaurant, a waiting room and the delightful outside toilets. A glimpse around the fence, a large Russian ship was in dock being loaded up, looked quite modern and wishful thinking...but alas no passengers allowed on this due to hazardous cargo..
The waiting around gave me a chance to update my blog (if only I could add the pictures too!), a few cups of tea was had, some played frisby as we waited patiently for news from our guide. By evening still no news, dinner in the restaurant was a very welcoming hot chicken and potato soup followed by a few vodkas. A trucker who had been there waiting for 5 days seemed quite keen to keep my glass topped up!
It seemed unlikely that we would get on a ferry that night, so we set up camp and a few of us staggered to our tents after the restaurant shut around 11:00 pm only for a rude awakening at 1:00 am (ouch!), we were getting on a ferry so we quickly dressed, packed up our tents and waited and waited and went through customs eventually on board at 4:00 am.
Now I'd heard rumours about the cabins and cockroaches before and was already prepared to spend the trip on deck but thought I would check out below just in case: dreary, smelly, low ceilings, maggots on the mattresses, dirty sinks and a communal mutant style toilet/squat box. Guess where I was spending the rest of the night!
We set sail around 5:30 am and were already settled in our sleeping bags by then, a warm calm night, I awoke to see the sunrise a couple of hours later. A lazy day, a visit to the bridge and more waiting, pot noodles for dinner, watching the sunset and soon we were coming into port in Baku at 8:00 pm.
After immigration formalities, checked into 'The Rigs' hotel luckily enough getting a single room threw my stuff on the floor, jumped in the shower and crashed out for the night.
Spent a couple of nights here in Baku waiting for our driver Simon and the truck to arrive on a separate ferry, eventually he arrived just in time to set off bush camping again, having spent over 24 hours on a ferry, a windy crossing, no hot water and very little to eat our journey seemed a luxury in comparison.
Saturday, 10 November 2012
Friday, 9 November 2012
Ashgabat
2 Nights in Ashgabat
City was wiped out by an earthquake in 1948 and has been rebuilt with most of the modern buildings having been built out of white marble. Apartments rents are $1000 per month in the centre! The suburbs are substantially less.
Took a coach to see some of the sites including:
Square of 10 years of independence with 10 horses monument.
Arch of neutrality : united nations flag and flags of all the countries who signed the neutrality agreement and yes the British flag was there. 12m high gold statue of Niyazov. Great views from the top of Independence square.
91 m independence monument
There are some unusual shapes for some of the buildings around town, down to the quirkiness of the French architect and President Niyazov (Turkmenbashi). Walking around the city there are many statues of him, lots of parks and an abundance of fountains, maybe a little OTT!
There is a Green belt project 'tree planting' program in place which in time will add some green to the country!
On the Sunday we went to Tolkuchka Bazaar, said to be the largest market in central Asia on the outskirts of town, huge blocks of buildings all selling much the same. A good place to stop for a samosa and kebab. Again any car is potentially a taxi, stand by the kerb with your hands by your waist and wave your wrist up and down (not how you hail them in London! Taxi driver tried to stiff us going there, asked for 50 manat, then 30 so we gave 15 and walked off (we are poor tourists lol !)
Also went off to the Russian market which is quite small in comparison but has a great choice of food with usual stalls: butcher; baker; dairy; fruit etc but no candles. Guy in the booze shop was a Chelsea fan (can I trust his recommendation for the local vodka I wonder ?)
Iceberg cafe was recommended for a decent draft beer. Not sure if we found the right bar, the taxis took us to 2 different bars for this! Great beer tho' in both costing about 60p!
Stayed in hotel Ashgabat, an old typical Russian style hotel in need of modernisation. No sink in the bathroom but at least a small tub with shower which is more than we get when bush camping! Complete with big babushkas on each floor holding room keys, quite scary when they shout at you in Russian.
Iran border is 35km west from here on the other side of the Kopet Dag mountains which we travel alongside on our way to Turkmenbashi which is 500km over some really crap roads, maybe they should spend some money on these! To the East we pass by the little Balkan mountain range
A stop on our way at Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque, the largest in central Asia. Built from white marble from Italy, the gold dome on the roof and 4 minarets each 91m tall, it is an impressive site. There are 8 entrances all leading to the centre of the mosque, a balcony and the shower rooms for washing are below in the basement. The mausoleum adjoining holds the graves of the president Niyazov, his parents and his brothers.
Another stop at some underground springs set in a cave. About half the group went in for the sulphur baths but as no shower facilities and not knowing when I'll get a shower next I opted for a coffee instead.
A bush camp for the night before trying to board a ferry to take us across the Caspian Sea. How much fun is this going to be!!
City was wiped out by an earthquake in 1948 and has been rebuilt with most of the modern buildings having been built out of white marble. Apartments rents are $1000 per month in the centre! The suburbs are substantially less.
Took a coach to see some of the sites including:
Square of 10 years of independence with 10 horses monument.
Arch of neutrality : united nations flag and flags of all the countries who signed the neutrality agreement and yes the British flag was there. 12m high gold statue of Niyazov. Great views from the top of Independence square.
91 m independence monument
There are some unusual shapes for some of the buildings around town, down to the quirkiness of the French architect and President Niyazov (Turkmenbashi). Walking around the city there are many statues of him, lots of parks and an abundance of fountains, maybe a little OTT!
There is a Green belt project 'tree planting' program in place which in time will add some green to the country!
On the Sunday we went to Tolkuchka Bazaar, said to be the largest market in central Asia on the outskirts of town, huge blocks of buildings all selling much the same. A good place to stop for a samosa and kebab. Again any car is potentially a taxi, stand by the kerb with your hands by your waist and wave your wrist up and down (not how you hail them in London! Taxi driver tried to stiff us going there, asked for 50 manat, then 30 so we gave 15 and walked off (we are poor tourists lol !)
Also went off to the Russian market which is quite small in comparison but has a great choice of food with usual stalls: butcher; baker; dairy; fruit etc but no candles. Guy in the booze shop was a Chelsea fan (can I trust his recommendation for the local vodka I wonder ?)
Iceberg cafe was recommended for a decent draft beer. Not sure if we found the right bar, the taxis took us to 2 different bars for this! Great beer tho' in both costing about 60p!
Stayed in hotel Ashgabat, an old typical Russian style hotel in need of modernisation. No sink in the bathroom but at least a small tub with shower which is more than we get when bush camping! Complete with big babushkas on each floor holding room keys, quite scary when they shout at you in Russian.
Iran border is 35km west from here on the other side of the Kopet Dag mountains which we travel alongside on our way to Turkmenbashi which is 500km over some really crap roads, maybe they should spend some money on these! To the East we pass by the little Balkan mountain range
A stop on our way at Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque, the largest in central Asia. Built from white marble from Italy, the gold dome on the roof and 4 minarets each 91m tall, it is an impressive site. There are 8 entrances all leading to the centre of the mosque, a balcony and the shower rooms for washing are below in the basement. The mausoleum adjoining holds the graves of the president Niyazov, his parents and his brothers.
Another stop at some underground springs set in a cave. About half the group went in for the sulphur baths but as no shower facilities and not knowing when I'll get a shower next I opted for a coffee instead.
A bush camp for the night before trying to board a ferry to take us across the Caspian Sea. How much fun is this going to be!!
Turkmenistan
Turkmenistan.
Off to the border crossing, the river Amu-Darya separates Turkmenistan from Uzbekistan and our crossing over the road bridge took around 3 hours, very straightforward and warm enough although we did get a spot of rain whilst waiting for the truck to get through.
Met up with our guide Murat, who is a fun character with a good sense of humour, extremely knowledgable and helpful.
A brief stop in a town to change up some money (some evidence of the black market but not as prolific here as in Uzbekistan) and to grab a spot of lunch.
Roads are not that great and are extremely bumpy, we pass through the ancient village of konye-Urgench. More cotton pickers in the fields. There are salt deposits along the road from over farming of the cotton and the irrigation involved. We are stopped many times for security checks but our guide gets us quickly on the way ' some of these people just want to look at the truck'
90% of the country is desert and we are spending a couple of nights bush camping in the Karakum desert, a nice soft bed! Fortunately the weather here is quite mild and a few of us sit by the camp fire until quite late, just a little wary of the scorpions and spiders who reside here, however doesn't stop a couple of people from sleeping under the stars!
Numerous camels can be spotted strolling down the road, across the desert, some with chains on their legs to stop them straying too far.
Our next stop is near to the Darvaza gas craters, these are man made and one has been set alight and is a blazing inferno. Disappointed not to be going in a Russian monster truck, a battered 4 wheel drive with one headlamp arrived to take us up to the crater after our meal of barbecued steaks. Arriving before sunset, I'm in awe at the scene in front, not long after the sun set and suddenly it was pitch dark. The fire glows and flares up, burning embers up the side of the crater and a lone tyre sits near the centre untouched by the fire. The wind changes direction as you walk around and in places you can feel the intensity and draw of the heat, best not to get too close to the edge!!
On the way back down to our camp, 8 of us cram into the back of the jeep, surprisingly it was quite comfortable really!
Tonight was a mad hatter tea party with scones and chocolate fridge cakes and some twisting and dancing. The agile Phil won the impromptu Limbo pole competition easily, no takers for the high jump though!
Now time again for another city and we set off on route next morning to Ashgabat stopping off at another 2 craters on the way, one with mud gurgling and bubbling away and starting to catch alight, the other with water. Unfortunately some people lost their lives when these craters were made inadvertently in the 1970's. A bit concerning then that the current president wants to start exploring for gas again here!
Off to the border crossing, the river Amu-Darya separates Turkmenistan from Uzbekistan and our crossing over the road bridge took around 3 hours, very straightforward and warm enough although we did get a spot of rain whilst waiting for the truck to get through.
Met up with our guide Murat, who is a fun character with a good sense of humour, extremely knowledgable and helpful.
A brief stop in a town to change up some money (some evidence of the black market but not as prolific here as in Uzbekistan) and to grab a spot of lunch.
Roads are not that great and are extremely bumpy, we pass through the ancient village of konye-Urgench. More cotton pickers in the fields. There are salt deposits along the road from over farming of the cotton and the irrigation involved. We are stopped many times for security checks but our guide gets us quickly on the way ' some of these people just want to look at the truck'
90% of the country is desert and we are spending a couple of nights bush camping in the Karakum desert, a nice soft bed! Fortunately the weather here is quite mild and a few of us sit by the camp fire until quite late, just a little wary of the scorpions and spiders who reside here, however doesn't stop a couple of people from sleeping under the stars!
Numerous camels can be spotted strolling down the road, across the desert, some with chains on their legs to stop them straying too far.
Our next stop is near to the Darvaza gas craters, these are man made and one has been set alight and is a blazing inferno. Disappointed not to be going in a Russian monster truck, a battered 4 wheel drive with one headlamp arrived to take us up to the crater after our meal of barbecued steaks. Arriving before sunset, I'm in awe at the scene in front, not long after the sun set and suddenly it was pitch dark. The fire glows and flares up, burning embers up the side of the crater and a lone tyre sits near the centre untouched by the fire. The wind changes direction as you walk around and in places you can feel the intensity and draw of the heat, best not to get too close to the edge!!
On the way back down to our camp, 8 of us cram into the back of the jeep, surprisingly it was quite comfortable really!
Tonight was a mad hatter tea party with scones and chocolate fridge cakes and some twisting and dancing. The agile Phil won the impromptu Limbo pole competition easily, no takers for the high jump though!
Now time again for another city and we set off on route next morning to Ashgabat stopping off at another 2 craters on the way, one with mud gurgling and bubbling away and starting to catch alight, the other with water. Unfortunately some people lost their lives when these craters were made inadvertently in the 1970's. A bit concerning then that the current president wants to start exploring for gas again here!
Khiva
The route to Khiva (a minor fort on a side branch of the silk route) is extremely bumpy due to the Kyzylkum desert sands being blown across the road, this desert is expanding towards Bukhara. Major road works are being carried out and funded by the Chinese so they can get their trucks through quickly or for?
Our home for the next 2 nights is at the former Muhammad Amin-Khan madrassah in the historic inner city of Khiva (IchanKala), we are staying in the hujras, small windowless cell rooms used by the students to study but very comfortable.
Our guide Mohammed had a great sense of humour and was very enthusiastic (unlike our previous guide here in Uzbekistan). He showed us around the main sites in the old walled city giving us an overview of the history of the place, seeing the ancient palaces, minarets, madrassahs, mausoleums and mosques. Most of the buildings have been preserved as museums.
The Juma mosque is very interesting and has 218 wooden columns dating back to the 10th century.
The unfinished minaret 'Kalta Minor Minaret' adjoins the madrassah we are staying in.
Tosh-Hovli Palace meaning stone house has elaborate decoration and originally had more than 150 rooms and 9 courtyards.
The Islom-Hoja minaret at 57m tall was built in the 20th century, I decided not to climb it !
There was a number of weddings taking place, it's the season for them explains our guide
'the people have time and money after the harvest'. As the bride and grooms walk through the city, they greet one another, the brides bow to each other to wish good luck, the grooms shake hands, it's so delightful to watch.
Bus loads of tourists descend on the city during the day. There is a single camel in town purely I think for show and is quite tacky which is a shame and detracts from Xiva's charm.
Slightly out of season, with everyone gone, it becomes a ghost town at night and all is quiet again, now you can really feel the atmosphere of this special place.
Our home for the next 2 nights is at the former Muhammad Amin-Khan madrassah in the historic inner city of Khiva (IchanKala), we are staying in the hujras, small windowless cell rooms used by the students to study but very comfortable.
Our guide Mohammed had a great sense of humour and was very enthusiastic (unlike our previous guide here in Uzbekistan). He showed us around the main sites in the old walled city giving us an overview of the history of the place, seeing the ancient palaces, minarets, madrassahs, mausoleums and mosques. Most of the buildings have been preserved as museums.
The Juma mosque is very interesting and has 218 wooden columns dating back to the 10th century.
The unfinished minaret 'Kalta Minor Minaret' adjoins the madrassah we are staying in.
Tosh-Hovli Palace meaning stone house has elaborate decoration and originally had more than 150 rooms and 9 courtyards.
The Islom-Hoja minaret at 57m tall was built in the 20th century, I decided not to climb it !
There was a number of weddings taking place, it's the season for them explains our guide
'the people have time and money after the harvest'. As the bride and grooms walk through the city, they greet one another, the brides bow to each other to wish good luck, the grooms shake hands, it's so delightful to watch.
Bus loads of tourists descend on the city during the day. There is a single camel in town purely I think for show and is quite tacky which is a shame and detracts from Xiva's charm.
Slightly out of season, with everyone gone, it becomes a ghost town at night and all is quiet again, now you can really feel the atmosphere of this special place.
Wednesday, 31 October 2012
Bukhara
Considered to be central Asia's holiest city, the old centre is full of ancient buildings and bazaars although a lot of restoration has taken place. Immersing myself in the old town, viewing the architecture and wandering the back streets this has a very different feel to Samarkand and is so quiet and peaceful especially at night. The place is extremely clean, however is famous for plagues in the past due to contaminated water in the canal network.
Apparently there is a new town, but I didn't go to it!
Staying at Lyabi-Hauz, eating kovurma laghman (fried noodles with meat and tomato sauce) and shashlyk kebabs overlooking the 17th century pool, medressas and square in the heart of the old town, a couple of ancient mulberry trees are also here and a statue of Hoja Nasruddin (a wise fool).
Bargaining at bazaars, the vendors prefer dollars especially for the big ticket stuff such as silk carpets, fur jackets, jewellery, gold and suzani (not that I was buying), signs of the black market where you get more uzbek cash for your dollar than at a bank!
Stopping at a carpet and silk centre to have a lesson in distinguishing between hand-made in Bukhara or machine factored in China , magic carpets (double sided and changing colour) and silks and cotton. I also had the opportunity to try on an original traditional burka, the veil was extremely itchy and the cloak very hot. The knots on the back show your marital status and number of children - I believe today I was married with 6 children! An interesting place and no hard selling!
The Kalon Minaret is incredible at 47m tall with 10m deep foundation, Jenghiz Khan was so impressed he ordered it spared in his trail of destruction. Access is from the adjacent Kalon mosque by a bridge, unfortunately though we were unable to climb its 105 stairs. Ornamental bands circle the minaret, all very different and there is minimal use of ceramic tiles.
The oldest structure is the Ark closed for renovation but mostly ruins inside now, this was the royal town for 15 centuries.
A visit to the 16th century Hoja Zayniddin Mosque, which is still functioning has very old original mosaic and ghanch work and the Chashma Ayub mausoleum built over a spring.
I have to mention the dining room at the hotel before leaving, this is a stunning room with artwork and silks adorning the walls although only breakfast is served here.
Apparently there is a new town, but I didn't go to it!
Staying at Lyabi-Hauz, eating kovurma laghman (fried noodles with meat and tomato sauce) and shashlyk kebabs overlooking the 17th century pool, medressas and square in the heart of the old town, a couple of ancient mulberry trees are also here and a statue of Hoja Nasruddin (a wise fool).
Bargaining at bazaars, the vendors prefer dollars especially for the big ticket stuff such as silk carpets, fur jackets, jewellery, gold and suzani (not that I was buying), signs of the black market where you get more uzbek cash for your dollar than at a bank!
Stopping at a carpet and silk centre to have a lesson in distinguishing between hand-made in Bukhara or machine factored in China , magic carpets (double sided and changing colour) and silks and cotton. I also had the opportunity to try on an original traditional burka, the veil was extremely itchy and the cloak very hot. The knots on the back show your marital status and number of children - I believe today I was married with 6 children! An interesting place and no hard selling!
The Kalon Minaret is incredible at 47m tall with 10m deep foundation, Jenghiz Khan was so impressed he ordered it spared in his trail of destruction. Access is from the adjacent Kalon mosque by a bridge, unfortunately though we were unable to climb its 105 stairs. Ornamental bands circle the minaret, all very different and there is minimal use of ceramic tiles.
The oldest structure is the Ark closed for renovation but mostly ruins inside now, this was the royal town for 15 centuries.
A visit to the 16th century Hoja Zayniddin Mosque, which is still functioning has very old original mosaic and ghanch work and the Chashma Ayub mausoleum built over a spring.
I have to mention the dining room at the hotel before leaving, this is a stunning room with artwork and silks adorning the walls although only breakfast is served here.
Samarkand
One of the oldest settlements in central Asia founded 5th century BC and a key city on the silk road.
Arriving for our first night, most of us went to the wine museum for a tasting. Would we finally find some decent wine, drinkable would be nice! After trying 7 extremely sweet wines, 2 harsh cognacs and another spirit I would say no although some of the guys did buy some!
Next needing food, Beck our guide took us to a restaurant that was extremely busy and lively with music and dancing and of course we had to join in the fun.
The main attraction is the vast Registan square complex with mosque and madrasahs. Just stunning and I'm speechless (hmm)! Blown away by the sheer size of this place and the amazing architecture
Bibi-Khanym Mosque is 41m high, built for Timur by his favourite wife, legend states that the architect would only finish the mosque if he could kiss Bibi. When Timur returned he found a mark on her cheek and from then on decreed women should wear veils.
Another night out, this time at an Armenian restaurant for 9 of us, a much quieter affair except for a local lady who insisted we got up and danced with her. She even put her arms around Simon to take his kebab off him - Don't eat, dance! Now Simon does enjoy his food and by gosh these kebabs were huge!
Tried out the local bus the next day and wanting some time on my own, I headed towards the older part of the town to visit the old beautiful mosque, this is a functioning mosque so off came my shoes and I covered my head before venturing inside. The minaret is very small inside and dark and not wanting to get stuck I stayed on the ground to take in the views of Samarkand.
The avenue of mausoleums known as Shah-I-Zinda (Tomb of the Living King) again is an impressive sight with ceramic tiles in the traditional white, blue and turquoise colours each building very different inside, domed roofs of marble or painted plaster.
Arriving for our first night, most of us went to the wine museum for a tasting. Would we finally find some decent wine, drinkable would be nice! After trying 7 extremely sweet wines, 2 harsh cognacs and another spirit I would say no although some of the guys did buy some!
Next needing food, Beck our guide took us to a restaurant that was extremely busy and lively with music and dancing and of course we had to join in the fun.
The main attraction is the vast Registan square complex with mosque and madrasahs. Just stunning and I'm speechless (hmm)! Blown away by the sheer size of this place and the amazing architecture
Bibi-Khanym Mosque is 41m high, built for Timur by his favourite wife, legend states that the architect would only finish the mosque if he could kiss Bibi. When Timur returned he found a mark on her cheek and from then on decreed women should wear veils.
Another night out, this time at an Armenian restaurant for 9 of us, a much quieter affair except for a local lady who insisted we got up and danced with her. She even put her arms around Simon to take his kebab off him - Don't eat, dance! Now Simon does enjoy his food and by gosh these kebabs were huge!
Tried out the local bus the next day and wanting some time on my own, I headed towards the older part of the town to visit the old beautiful mosque, this is a functioning mosque so off came my shoes and I covered my head before venturing inside. The minaret is very small inside and dark and not wanting to get stuck I stayed on the ground to take in the views of Samarkand.
The avenue of mausoleums known as Shah-I-Zinda (Tomb of the Living King) again is an impressive sight with ceramic tiles in the traditional white, blue and turquoise colours each building very different inside, domed roofs of marble or painted plaster.
Tashkent
A long border crossing to get into Uzbekistan, 5 hours and what started off as a warm afternoon was getting just a bit chilly in the evening . Fortunately custom officials allowed us to go and get coats from the truck but would we get through before their technical break at 7pm?
Uzbekistan, here for 9 nights, central Asia capital of culture with the big 3 cities of Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva with amazing architecture on our agenda.
Starting out in Tashkent (meaning city of stone), this modern capital city is a blend of old and new, the elaborately decorated metro system made it easy to get around the city but no pictures allowed as this was originally designed as a nuclear shelter.
I just had to go in search of The old town which runs from the Chorsu Bazaar, a maze of alleys with low houses and entrances that conceal garden courtyards. The bazaar itself sold all sorts of wares including socks and spices and pomegranates.
Khast Imom complex is the religious centre with mosque, medressas (now souvenir shops) and a museum housing the oldest Quran in the world.
Medressah Kukeldash is one of central Asia's largest Medressahs next to Chorsu Square.
The new town centres around Timur public square with broad tree lined roads and a statue of Amir Temur sitting on his stallion.
Plenty of Plov on offer with a visit to the Central Asian Plov centre for lunch. This is a national dish of rice, vegetables, chickpeas and meat swimming in mutton fat/oil. Not good for the diet but very tasty! Served with non/Lepyoshka (bread) and salad of tomatoes, cucumber, onion and dill.
Cotton is cultivated and saw many cotton pickers working the fields on our travels toward samarkand Soviet irrigation systems are interesting with water channels dug in the ground to divert water to the fields
Uzbekistan, here for 9 nights, central Asia capital of culture with the big 3 cities of Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva with amazing architecture on our agenda.
Starting out in Tashkent (meaning city of stone), this modern capital city is a blend of old and new, the elaborately decorated metro system made it easy to get around the city but no pictures allowed as this was originally designed as a nuclear shelter.
I just had to go in search of The old town which runs from the Chorsu Bazaar, a maze of alleys with low houses and entrances that conceal garden courtyards. The bazaar itself sold all sorts of wares including socks and spices and pomegranates.
Khast Imom complex is the religious centre with mosque, medressas (now souvenir shops) and a museum housing the oldest Quran in the world.
Medressah Kukeldash is one of central Asia's largest Medressahs next to Chorsu Square.
The new town centres around Timur public square with broad tree lined roads and a statue of Amir Temur sitting on his stallion.
Plenty of Plov on offer with a visit to the Central Asian Plov centre for lunch. This is a national dish of rice, vegetables, chickpeas and meat swimming in mutton fat/oil. Not good for the diet but very tasty! Served with non/Lepyoshka (bread) and salad of tomatoes, cucumber, onion and dill.
Cotton is cultivated and saw many cotton pickers working the fields on our travels toward samarkand Soviet irrigation systems are interesting with water channels dug in the ground to divert water to the fields
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