Bukhara

Considered to be central Asia's holiest city, the old centre is full of ancient buildings and bazaars although  a lot of restoration has taken place. Immersing myself in the old town, viewing the architecture and wandering the back streets this has a very different feel to Samarkand and is so quiet and peaceful especially at night. The place is extremely clean, however is famous for plagues in the past due to contaminated water in the  canal network.  

Apparently there is a new town, but I didn't go to it!

Staying at Lyabi-Hauz, eating kovurma laghman (fried noodles with meat and tomato sauce) and shashlyk kebabs overlooking the 17th century pool, medressas and square in the heart of the old town, a couple of ancient mulberry trees are also here and a statue of Hoja Nasruddin (a wise fool). 

Bargaining at bazaars, the vendors prefer dollars especially for the big ticket stuff such as silk carpets, fur jackets, jewellery, gold and suzani (not that I was buying), signs  of the black market where you get more uzbek cash for your dollar than at a bank!

Stopping at a carpet and silk centre to have a lesson in distinguishing between hand-made in Bukhara or machine factored in China , magic carpets (double sided and changing colour) and silks and cotton.  I also had the opportunity to try on an original traditional burka, the veil was extremely itchy and the cloak very hot. The knots on the back show your marital status and number of children - I believe today I was married with 6 children!  An interesting place and no hard selling!

The Kalon Minaret is incredible at 47m tall with 10m deep foundation, Jenghiz Khan was so impressed he ordered it spared in his trail of destruction.   Access is from the adjacent Kalon mosque by a bridge, unfortunately though we were unable to climb its 105 stairs. Ornamental bands  circle the minaret, all very different and  there is minimal use of ceramic tiles. 

The oldest structure is the Ark closed for renovation but mostly ruins inside now, this was the royal town for 15 centuries. 

A visit to the 16th century Hoja Zayniddin Mosque, which is still functioning has very old original mosaic and ghanch work and the Chashma Ayub mausoleum built over a spring. 

I have to mention the dining room at the hotel before leaving, this is a stunning room with artwork and silks adorning the walls although only breakfast is served here.