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Sunday 28 October 2012

Hexi Corridor

The Hexi corridor is historically the only road from China to the west, a 1,000km route between mountains through the desert which is still marked by remains of the great wall terminating at fort Jiayuguan and a number of silk route towns on the way.

Our first stop on this route was at Zhangye, Marco Polo stayed here for one year but I was glad for just one night at the hotel we stayed at which was offering rooms by the hour!!  However found a small street market with some excellent food which helped to pass the time.

Left the next morning, thankfully for the journey up to Jiaguguan the final outpost before the desert.   The fort here was built in 1372 to guard the pass between the snow capped Tian Shan mountains and the Mazong Shan range. Approaching the town are some very ugly identikit blocks of housing, straight roads, power stations: ruining some of the great views from the fort itself!  The 'Great Wall museum' was worth a visit and later that day we were off visiting part of the great wall.











The Great Wall, what more can I say!






Climbing up was such a fantastic experience and with great views watching the sun setting on the overhanging wall before setting up a bush camp next to the wall itself.





Waking up next to the wall on my birthday is unforgettable, it would have been great to stay longer but a long drive ahead to Dunhuang and celebrations for my birthday that night, some great pressents: jar of mayonnaise, snickers bar, cheesecake and torch batteries (thanks guys!). A camp fire, music and beers.




So I find out I share my birthday with Chinese National day, here they have a week off to celebrate- maybe I should follow suit....







On 2nd October a visit was lined up to see The Mogao caves, these have one of the greatest collections of  Buddhist art in the world.  492 caves and we were only allowed into about 8 caves however for about 2 mins at a time. A couple of big Buddhas indeed 34m & 26m tall and the old hidden library of which a good number of the manuscripts, sutras, silk & paper paintings were taken in 1900 and reside now in the British Museum (may not be a good time to tell our guide I'm English!). 

Not allowed to take any pictures and when our 2 mins were up our guide said 'And so much for this cave then!'.

This place was heaving today with about 12,000 people due to the national holiday.  

The last stop on the silk road for pilgrim monks on their way to India.



 


The crowds
The only photo we were allowed to take                  


 

Bush camping in the dessert by the sand dunes and after setting up the tents, took taxis into Dunhuang (a beautiful desert oasis) to explore the night market and enjoy some street food. Getting a cold beer proved to be quite difficult and when I tried to explain by miming being cold, the stall owner after a few minutes bought a kettle of beer out, we were all in stitches! Eventually got a cold glass with a very tasty lamb dish and chocolate cake yummy..

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