Ashgabat

2 Nights in Ashgabat 

City was wiped out by an earthquake in 1948 and has been rebuilt with most of the modern buildings having been  built out of white marble. Apartments rents are $1000 per month in the centre!  The suburbs are substantially less. 

Took a coach  to see some of the sites including:

Square of 10 years of independence with 10 horses monument. 

Arch of neutrality : united nations flag and flags of all the countries who signed the neutrality agreement and yes the British flag was there.  12m high gold statue of Niyazov. Great views from the top of Independence square. 

91 m independence monument 

There are some unusual shapes for some of the buildings around town, down to the quirkiness of the French architect and President Niyazov (Turkmenbashi). Walking around the city there are many statues of him, lots of parks and an abundance of fountains, maybe a little OTT!

There is a Green belt project 'tree planting' program in place which in time will add some green to the country!

On the Sunday we went to Tolkuchka Bazaar, said to be the largest market in central Asia on the outskirts of town, huge blocks of buildings all selling much the same. A good place to stop for a samosa and kebab. Again any car is potentially a taxi, stand by the kerb with your hands by your waist and wave your wrist up and down (not how you hail them in London!  Taxi driver tried to stiff us going there, asked for 50 manat, then 30 so we gave 15 and walked off (we are poor tourists lol !)

Also went off to the Russian market which is quite small in comparison but has  a great choice of food with usual stalls: butcher;  baker;  dairy; fruit etc but no candles.  Guy in the booze shop was a Chelsea fan (can I trust his recommendation for the local vodka I wonder ?)

Iceberg cafe was recommended for a decent draft beer.  Not sure if we found the right bar, the taxis took us to 2 different bars for this!  Great beer tho' in both costing about 60p!

Stayed  in hotel Ashgabat, an old typical Russian style hotel in need of modernisation.  No sink in the bathroom but at least a small tub with shower which is more than we get when bush camping!  Complete with big babushkas on each floor holding room keys, quite scary when they shout at you in Russian. 

Iran border is 35km west from here on the other side of the Kopet Dag mountains which we travel alongside on our way to Turkmenbashi which is 500km over some really crap roads, maybe they should spend some money on these!   To the East we pass by the little Balkan mountain range

A stop on our way at Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque, the largest in central Asia.   Built from white marble from Italy, the gold dome on the roof and 4 minarets each 91m tall, it is an impressive site.  There are 8 entrances all leading to the centre of the mosque, a balcony and the shower rooms for washing are below in the basement.  The mausoleum adjoining holds the graves of the president Niyazov, his  parents and his brothers.

Another stop at some underground springs set in a cave. About half the group  went in for the sulphur baths but as no shower facilities and not knowing when I'll get a shower next I opted for a coffee instead. 

A bush camp for the night before trying to board a ferry to take us across the Caspian Sea.  How much fun is this going to be!!