Hexi Corridor

The Hexi corridor is historically the only road from China to the west, a 1,000km route between mountains through the desert which is still marked by remains of the great wall terminating at fort Jiayuguan and a number of silk route towns on the way.

Our first stop on this route was at Zhangye, Marco Polo stayed here for one year but I was glad for just one night at the hotel we stayed at which was offering rooms by the hour!!  However found a small street market with some excellent food which helped to pass the time.

Left the next morning, thankfully for the journey up to Jiaguguan the final outpost before the desert.   The fort here was built in 1372 to guard the pass between the snow capped Tian Shan mountains and the Mazong Shan range. Approaching the town are some very ugly identikit blocks of housing, straight roads, power stations: ruining some of the great views from the fort itself!  The 'Great Wall museum' was worth a visit and later that day we were off visiting part of the great wall.

The Great Wall, what more can I say!

Climbing up was such a fantastic experience and with great views watching the sun setting on the overhanging wall before setting up a bush camp next to the wall itself.

Waking up next to the wall on my birthday is unforgettable, it would have been great to stay longer but a long drive ahead to Dunhuang and celebrations for my birthday that night, some great pressents: jar of mayonnaise, snickers bar, cheesecake and torch batteries (thanks guys!). A camp fire, music and beers.

So I find out I share my birthday with Chinese National day, here they have a week off to celebrate- maybe I should follow suit....

On 2nd October a visit was lined up to see The Mogao caves, these have one of the greatest collections of  Buddhist art in the world.  492 caves and we were only allowed into about 8 caves however for about 2 mins at a time. A couple of big Buddhas indeed 34m & 26m tall and the old hidden library of which a good number of the manuscripts, sutras, silk & paper paintings were taken in 1900 and reside now in the British Museum (may not be a good time to tell our guide I'm English!). 

Not allowed to take any pictures and when our 2 mins were up our guide said 'And so much for this cave then!'.

This place was heaving today with about 12,000 people due to the national holiday.  

The last stop on the silk road for pilgrim monks on their way to India.



 

The crowds

The only photo we were allowed to take

 

 

 

 

 

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bush camping in the dessert by the sand dunes and after setting up the tents, took taxis into Dunhuang (a beautiful desert oasis) to explore the night market and enjoy some street food. Getting a cold beer proved to be quite difficult and when I tried to explain by miming being cold, the stall owner after a few minutes bought a kettle of beer out, we were all in stitches! Eventually got a cold glass with a very tasty lamb dish and chocolate cake yummy..

Caves, monasteries and grasslands

Glad to be leaving the big cities and smog behind !!

Arrived near Tianshui the evening of Saturday 22nd September at a home-stay close by to Maiji Shan (haystack mountain) caves. About 200 caves full of Buddhist carvings and statues.  Had to climb a steep staircase to see the caves, unfortunately many were closed off but the views were stunning. At the base of the cliffs are a botanical garden and a waterfall further up complete with sign warning us not to venture further due to wild boar and black bear. 

In the village for lunch and no English menus, Kathy impersonated a chicken and we got given omelettes to eat and then watched the locals playing what looked like chess in the streets. 

Next Stop Xiahe (aka Little Tibet) a mountain valley 3000 metres above sea level.  Home to Labrang Monastery which houses the yellow hat sect and is the biggest Tibetan monastery after Lhasa. An English speaking monk took us around the temples, although difficult to understand his English he was a very happy chappy indeed. Heard the monks chanting early morning prayers and later gathering in the square. 

Burning of juniper branches for prosperity and walking the kora, a 3km circuit around the Monastery spinning the prayers wheels alongside many Tibetan pilgrims. 

Took a trip up to Ganjia grasslands, arriving first at the prayer flags on a hill top at altitude of 3300 metres. Views are stunning with snow topped mountains in the distance, bluebells and thistles in the grass. 

A visit to a black hat monastery 

and then on to the ancient (2000 years old) walled village  of Bajiao where saw the locals going about traditional chores including washing wool, clothes and lots of haystacks. One of my favourite days so far! 

Xi'an

Wednesday 19th September was a long drive day to Xi'an up through the mountains although the scenery was obscured by the long tunnels cut deep into the mountains, one of which stretched for 37km arriving late at night to stay at 'Han Tang Inn Youth hostel'. 

Xi'an is another big city with the inner city walls still intact forming a 14km long rectangle and the Bell tower in the centre where the main 4 streets converge. 

Spent the next morning wandering around the Muslim quarter walking through the narrow winding streets browsing stalls selling a variety of goods, tourist souvenir stalls, antiques, street food, butcher stalls, puppies and birds in cages!

Saw The 'Great Mosque' which is one of the largest in China and a fascinating blend of both Islamic and Chinese architecture. Also this mosque faces west towards Mecca. 

Had some fun with buses (missing stops, end of route and wrong directions) but at least got to see the Great Goose Pagoda which was used to store the sutra the monk 'Xuanzang' brought back from India along the silk road. 

Next day we set off to see the Terracotta Warriors, discovered in1974 by peasants digging a well. Pit 1, I thought in particular was very impressive with ranks of life sized infantry figures carved individually and laid out in battle formation. Excavation works is still ongoing. 

Xi'an was once the terminus of the Silk Road and my journey on this route begins in the morning!

Chengdu!

Full of the flu and feeling very intolerant of the babbling noise and queue jumping by the chinese at Kathmandu airport for the flight to Chengdu, China.  Fortunately no spitting (yet anyway!)

Arrived Sunday 16th September at 4pm local time, the air is much cooler and it is raining.  

Chengdu is a modern busy city with plenty to do with many parks and temples.  

The roads are very wide (4 lanes in places) with lots of traffic and a separate lane for motorbikes, mopeds etc who seem to go wherever they want!  Umbrellas and waterproofs attached to the bikes didn't seem to deter the riders in the rain, on sunnier days parasols and fans are attached alongside with their shopping. No helmets used here.

Our home for the next 3 nights is at a hostel called Sims cozy garden hotel, previously set up by a couple who met up whilst backpacking, is most definitely where backpackers hangout but surprisingly the facilities are quite good and the shower has hot water!  

Having run out of hard cash, time now to see if I could get my currency card to work!  Found a hole in the wall and put my hands through some bars and success, Yuan!  Good I can get dinner, first night we ate in a restaurant full of Chinese people, menu was in chinese and ordering involved pointing at what was on some of the tables, other than duck, auberinge and chillies oh and rice I couldn't tell you want I ate but it was spicy but what else should I expect in Sichuan province?

Next day some of the group decided to hire a minibus to take us around the main tourist sites, this city is a little big and as I was still suffering I was happy to tag along.  So off to a Zhaojue temple where we saw some early morning tai chi before heading to Wenshu (Buddhist god of wisdom) monastery, this is said to be the best preserved Buddhist temple in Chengdu with hundreds of bronze, wooden and stone statues and Buddhist relics.  Outside in the temple courtyard incense is burned, there is lots of activity and chanting of prayers in the temple.

Lunch was street food (noodle soup with beef and tomato) at Jinli street (a new built ancient looking street).  Also had a glass of sugar water (pressed juices from sugar cane) from a stall.  Onto the Tibetan quarter, plenty of brass on sale and lots of beggars around here.

At last we were at The People's Park, one of the main attractions here for me personally.  Entering the park you can hear the music playing, see line dancing and tai chi and even take part in karaoke!  Fish being fed with a baby bottle at the pond. Most bizarre is the ear cleaning being carried out in public, not convinced the instruments were particularly sterile i stayed well clear!  Stopped off for a cup of tea in a tea house watching many games of mahjong being played by the locals.

Then another new 'ancient' street, I just loved the art here, huge wall murals with artist easels set out in front.

The highlight of Chengdu for me was the visit to the Giant Panda Sanctuary and Breeding Centre, an early start to see the feeding of the adult and cub pandas. The babies are born at this time of year so felt incredibly lucky to see a newborn panda at less than 2 weeks old.  There are also red pandas here who roam fairly freely but don't get too close as they can be quite vicious.

 

The last night, had to be a night out at the opera. Sichuan Opera is a 300 year old tradition performed at a teahouse, more burlesque in style with high pitched singing accompanied by percussion and wind instruments. The main act is the magical trick of face changing allowing actors to portray many different characters.  Arrived to see the actors changing and painting their faces and supped on tea constantly refilled throughout the performance.

Sorry still no pics!

A Week in Nepal

Woo Hoo!  Arrived safely in Kathmandu with luggage in tow!

Roads are chaotic with trucks, cars, buses, motorbikes & rickshaws fighting for space, the noise of horns getting louder the closer you get to the centre of Thamel district. Apparently there is some method in their madness, one honk means I'm behind you, two I'm overtaking and 3 is it safe??

Checked into the hotel, dumped my bags and set out to explore the area.  No sooner had I left the hotel, the rain came down, the dirt road I was walking on was quickly turning into muddy puddles and with splashed legs I dived into what looked like a locals bar, went up some stairs, took off my shoes and sat in a little cubby hole waiting for the rain to clear up and the young girl wanting to bring me food and more drink. She kept saying I was very different, later I realised I was outside the tourist area and not many foreigners went into the local bars (shame)!

Rain over, on with exploring the maze of streets, this is definitely backpacker central with it's many shops selling trekking and mountain gear (North Face fakes!), hippy clothing, t-shirts and jewellery.  Not all is lost though, a delightful bookstore and some good restaurant & bars to hang out, my favourite being a garden cafe called Electric Pagoda where the momos (spicy dumplings), coffee and lassi was so yummy.  Shopkeepers calling out 'namaste' as you walk past but beware the art student who wants to take you to his school, a scam apparently to get money out of you!

Met up with the rest of the group: 20 in total and with 4 guides to help us along the way.

Next couple of days spent exploring some beautiful Hindu and Buddhist shrines and temples at Durbar Square, Bhaktapur, Pashupatinath & Swayambhu. 

At Hanuman-d'hoka Durbar Square, a cheeky rickshaw driver kept asking if we wanted a helicopter  ride, it was just funny but on the back of his rickshaw it did say No.1 helicopter rider.... 










At Bhaktapur watching the local craftspeople trying to sell their wares. A textile wallet started out at 500 rupees and with no takers even after you could have 10 for 500 rupees

Swayambhu (monkey temple), a local man trying to tell me the history and a local woman wanting to get in my picture... Of course they both wanted money for the privilege but did I ask??

It's monsoon season still and sudden downpours of rain are pretty much common as is the frequent outages of power.  There are scheduled times when the power is turned off twice a day, these times vary each day and it's wise to check the posters around the hotel, it only took me a couple of days to realise lol!

 xxx

 
Headed up to The Last Resort for 3 nights close to the Tibet border (shame we couldn't cross it due to not being able to get visas).  An early start and no traffic in Kathmandu due to strikes but numerous security checks on the way. This is a tented resort offering extreme adventure activities and some of the braver ? members of the group did a Bungee jump/canyon swing.  I did some canyoning which involved donning wet-suits and helmets and abseiling down a waterfall with drops of 10m, 25m, 35m & 45m (8 jumps in total).  A bit too long here, enjoyed the Nepalese massage but not the damp beds & musty tents, lack of sleep and getting a cold.

Back to Kathmandu for one more night before setting out for flight to China.

Setting out

An early start to  catch  a flight from Dalaman to Istanbul.  Jumped on the shuttle bus into Taksim, the hustle and bustle of people, the noise of the traffic with cars and buses all tooting their horns hit me as soon as I stepped off the bus, a far cry from the relatively peaceful resort I had not long left behind.   Wondering what to do, where to go I turned down one of the many small side streets and found a small cafe to have a coffee in.  

Having sought some advice from the owner on how to get to Sultanahmet, I ventured out looking for a 61t bus in vain, I lost count of all the different  buses, their stops and with no idea where the funicular was I decided just to soak up some of the Turkish atmosphere and watch the street seller selling his cups of çay.  

Then back on the bus back to the airport to catch my flight to Istanbul. Went to sleep as soon as I got on the plane so missed the take-off, slept the whole flight and woke up as the plane begun its descent.  A quick transfer at Sharjah  and back to sleep again before arriving in Nepal 4 hours later fully  refreshed and ready to explore Kathmandu.